Horsefaq.org
A Handbook for Horse Owners
Cold shoeing, consequently, is only an expedient, a convenience; it may, however, be a necessity, under conditions such as those of active service. Hot shoeing: A well-fitting shoe should have a level, even bearing on the whole wall, the bars, white line, and the outer rim of the sole. It should follow the circumference of the hoof accurately. In hunters it is usual to set the hind shoe a little back from the toe, in order to avoid the risk of over-reaching when jumping.
The following are common faults of fitting:
Pricking: Occasionally with clumsy shoeing a horse may get pricked, by the driving of a nail into the sensitive part of his foot. Nails should be driven in a medium height, those at the toe a little higher than those at the heel. Rasping the surface of the wall is a common fault. There should be no rasping above the clenches. The fewer rasp marks the better.
Roughing, which consists in taking off the shoe and turning down the ends, is a device for preventing slipping in frosty weather. Another is screw cogs, which are put into the shoes. Or frost nails, inserted into the ordinary nail holes, can be used. The horse is shod a little wider at the heel, and the frost nails are inserted in such a way as not to touch the horn. One nail should be inserted in each heel of each fore-shoe, and one in the outer heel of each hind shoe, provided there are no calkins.
Horses can be worked without shoes in hard and dry climates where roads are cemented, and they can do good work in other circumstances if the conditions permit.
If a horse is ridden without shoes: